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When assembling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might expect familiar high-end venues. Yet, nestled high among these food titans is a modest salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the owners totally shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” says the proprietor, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small place achieving such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.